Alas my friend Julie no longer lives in San Francisco, but I will always remember this day. Wet, windy, and absolutely perfect.
Julie and I had been trying for ages to have a walk though/photo shoot in North Beach so I was delighted when she e-mailed me with the date. It was a drizzly day when I met up with Julie at City Lights But being true daughters of San Francisco, we did not let a little wind and rain deter us.
It was too early for lunch so I suggested that we take the bus up the hill to Coit Tower and walk down the hill, exploring the side alleys and looking for whatever old houses are left. Fortunately, the 39 Coit Tower came around right away so we didn’t have to toil up that hill. I have a friend who lived on Greenwich and I knew from personal experience how difficult it is to trudge endlessly up one steep hill after another. Who needs to climb Mt Everest when you have the hills of North Beach?
We got on the bus going in the wrong direction but felt like we were having our own personal tour. Our bus driver was a delightful and protective Asian gentleman who made us get off and wait until he finished his break because we might not be safe inside the bus. He made me smile so I teased him that we were certainly the types who would hijack the bus and drive it to Reno.
When we got off at the top of Telegraph hill, I was a bit disoriented. I hadn’t been there in ages and I still had powerful memories of the way it was back in the early 70’s. My ex-husband’s aunt had lived in one of the tiny, wooden cottages on the bay side of the hill.
I remember walking down endless steps, wading into the bushes along the side of the hill, picking the wild anise for her to make into candy. Most of the small cottages then were modest, inhabited by long-time residents of the hill. There were poets, musicians, some beatniks, and fishermen; G’s aunt worked at a local factory and wrote poetry in her spare time. I knew a lot of the poets and musicians and made sure to attend any times they recited or performed in the the numerous cafes in North Beach.
The wooden steps are no longer there and you really have to look hard to find any of the modest homes.
But all are not new and soulless condominiums. Julie pointed out to me an incredible piece of Art Deco architecture, complete with silver bas-relief and a cutout of Humphrey Bogart in the window. Apparently it had been used in the 1947 movie, Dark Passage and hasn’t changed much since then.
By now, we were walking up and down the slippery wet stairs and side alleys, trying to find the source of parrot screeching. After a few false starts, Julie had the good sense to walk up a tiny, obscure alley where we found a flock of them devouring the red berries of a Pyracantha tree and conducting a whole opera in parrot.
You may know the saying “it's not over until the fat lady sings.” I don’t care for the sexism in that remark but apparently parrots have taken that to heart and were making sure that the final aria lasted for hours, if not days. They are beautiful, but I wouldn’t care to have them live next to my apartment.
Later we walked back down Lombard Street to Columbus Ave. I don’t remember ever being up the street as it began at the foot of the hill and the older houses were beautiful old Victorians. The sun came out and we exclaimed at all, the city sparkling below us like it was friosted with white icing, the architectural detail and the general ambience of the area. You can still fell what it must have been in the 40’s and 50’s.
We stopped for lunch at my favorite café in North Beach – the Original US Café. It’s was then at the corner of Columbus and Stockton. The front of the restaurant was shapped like the prow of a ship with windowns in all directions, always full and always fun with the vigorous Sicilian waitresses hollering orders from one end of the space to the cook at the other.
Julie sprang for the Pappardelle Boscaiola, which is homemade wide ribbon pasta with bacon, onion, and mushrooms in a tomato cream sauce, and the Spaghetti Bolognese (tomato meat sauce). She gave me a bit of her pasta which was perfectly cooked. I had lamb chops, gnocchi and a Caesar salad, one of my favorite meals. We drank a whole carafe of the rough Italian red wine, but the carbs we had eaten kept us from falling over. We finished lunch with a strong cup of coffee We needed the caffeine because I wanted to take her to another North Beach iconic place.
Julie took a menu and vowed to eat her way through it, a vow that I completely agreed with. To hell with the weight. We didn’t have desert here because I wanted to introduce her to Stella’s, the best Italian pastry shop in North Beach. It’s another homey, nondescript store that’s been around for ages and for a reason. The pastry is fresh, with clean flavors from good ingredients. You won’t get soggy or stale pastries here. We split a cannelloni and danced out of the store on a pasta and sugar high.
Afterwards, we walked down Montgomery Street toward Market, sharing views on art, dance, history, politics and more things than I can remember. We ignored our damp hair and soggy wet socks as Julie stopped to photograph an old advertising piece on a ancient brick wall, probably pre-1906. The building was in the process of being demolished, prior to City College building its Chinatown Campus on that location .
The perfect day ended with a ride on the F Line down Market St to the Castro Theater where Julie was going to see a movie staring Bud Cort, and I went home to take a nap!